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Post by jepnkd on Nov 12, 2005 10:57:24 GMT -5
I have been looking at the rubicon express kits I want to run 35s is the long arm kit a must or does it just alow a better ride and more flex? what else do i need for the 35s? are there better or equal kits for less money
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Post by salyers890 on Nov 12, 2005 12:03:14 GMT -5
don't know much about the actual kits, but you would think it would allow more wheel travel straight up and down. you even see jeep vids where the wheel that droops looks like it's behind the one that's up, like the whole axle housing is turned? that's the control arm. as a tire gets pushed down, the arm is forced to go on a different angle, a greater one. if you remember some HS geometry, the hypothenuse of a triangle is it's longest side of a right angle triangle - the long arm would be the hypotenuse if you drew a right angle line from the frame down to the axle and over to the arm bracket on the frame. line from the arm to the shock as the angle gets bigger, the hypothenuse would need to increase in length to maintain that right angle. sorry for the jibberish we don't have that - what we have is a solid piece of steel. long arms allow more lateral travel while still maintaning the line you picked, without having to countersteer. here's a little drawing of how I think It works. sorry, not sure how to crop in paint. hope that helps. A=control arm bracket B = coil spring C= axle housing/hub  |
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Post by jepnkd on Nov 13, 2005 0:35:19 GMT -5
damn im just a poor texas boy and thats a whole lotta gazintas.
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Post by vauxilicon05 on Nov 13, 2005 10:56:36 GMT -5
If you are wanting to run 35's...here are the things you need to consider: First off the Kit you want. A Long Arm kit is a great option if you have the $$ but definately not a must to run 35's. You can run 35's a number of way, but I would reccomend two different ones using a RE short arm kit if you want to work with more of a budget. I like to have a low COG, therefore I like the setup of running the Rubicon Express 4.5" Superflex Kit with 3.5" coils. This away you get all the needed parts that come with the 4.5" kit but keep a lower center of gravity. The 3.5" coils will actually net closer to 4" or 4.5" of lift depending on added weight you have (i.e. bumpers, skids, winch, etc.). The 4.5" coils are the same and will net closer to 5" or 5.5" of lift. Now, as I was saying, I would run the 3.5" coils and a JKS 1.25" BL and JKS MML. This will get you up to about 5.25" of lift or maybe a hair more. This is plenty for 35's. The 4.5" springs would work just as well though, just remember taller isn't always better. You will also need some new shocks with these kits; OME's are my favorite, you'll need the LT's for them, RE Monotubes are nice, and so are Bilstein 5100's.
Next things to consider will be gearing and axles. I don't know if you have a Rubicon or Sport, and I'm assuming you at least have an Unlimited, but you will need to re-gear to have comfortable driving in the highways. I would recommend regearing to 4.88's. You will also need stronger axles or you are going to mess up those D35's quick. The 44's that come on Rubi's are nice, put I would just run some Chromoly Axles and be done with it. Of course you might as well through in some lockers as well if you don't have a Rubicon...
Next is steering. The stock steering setup on Jeeps is actually pretty weak. It needs to be upgraded even with 33's in my opinion. A good setup would either be the Currie HD Steering Kit, or spending more money and going with the ORO U-Turn setup which is a crossover setup. It's very beefy and a better setup then the Y-setup Jeeps come with stock.
Brakes should also be a consideration, but aren't a MUST.
You rear driveshaft is probably going to be about at it's max with the 3.5" coils, but if you go up to the 4.5" coils I would recommend a new driveshaft. If you have the regular sport Unlimited you'll need a SYE Kit and a CV Shaft. With a Rubicon, you'll just need the Rubi CV Shaft.
Then of course comes wheels and tires. Those are of course your choice, but remember you'll need new wheels to fit a 12.5" wide tire because the backspacing on the stock rims is not so great.
As you can see there is A LOT of money involved in upgrading to that large of a tire CORRECTLY. Of course you could skip some of the things I mentioned, but you will have problems later if you do. If all of this seems like way too much money, I would consider just moving up slowly, try just doing a BB/BL/MML combo and run some 32's or 33's and see how you like that first. Either way, keep us updated and let us know if you have any more questions....
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Post by RubiRedLJ on Nov 13, 2005 11:08:38 GMT -5
No, you do not need long arms to run 35's.
Do long arms provide a better street ride? Yes.
If your total suspension height is under or right @ 4", you can certainly run short arms with this height. Anything more, and the control arms angles get to severe, (where flatter or parallel to the ground is better...), and provide a very harsh ride.
With any lift around 4" or 4.5" like RE's, I'd suggest a 1" BL also, so your not eating up your flares. (of course you could bump stop the hell out of it but, that is a whole other discussion).
There is a Jeep Unlimited over on JU, in the Unlimited pics thread, a Red LJ, on 37" MTR's on a Currie 4" SA system w/ a 1" BL. Very nice set-up.
If you do go with 35's, and the appropriate sized lift, don't forget that while this may give you the height to run 35's, be aware that you drivetrain should be addressed also.
Upgrading the shafts, (fr. & rr.) would be a good idea, will for sure need to regear, and with that extra weight up front, the steering will also crumble alot easier than when the rig was on 30's or 31's.
33's seem to be about the largest tire most can run before some of the aforementioned things need to be addressed. (especially if you run the DREADED D35!!!)
ryan
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Post by jepnkd on Nov 13, 2005 23:38:37 GMT -5
thats alot of great info thank you very much for spending the time to explane.
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Post by black05 on Mar 19, 2006 15:27:21 GMT -5
what kind of steering upgrades would be needed to jump up to 35's, I'm planning on going to 35's when this set of tires wears down. Are there any other mods that would really be needed when jumping up to the 35's?
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Post by VALJRubicon on Mar 19, 2006 16:54:40 GMT -5
I would recommend up grading the tie rods, Curry makes a nice set and they hold up well under abuse. I put the tie rods on at the same time as the 35's, but I know of others who ran the stock tie rods and were ok , but if you plan on going off road I would up grade. just my .00005 cents  |
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Post by wv4x4 on Mar 21, 2006 14:51:54 GMT -5
Learned the tie-rod lesson the hard way! DAMN TREE! I temporary fixed mine with a hi-lift handle so I guess if you carry one of those you can alwasy get off the trail. Ive since upgraded to the Big Daddy and love it! Take baby steps! I suggest armour before anything else. You dont need everything at once! Currently I'm running my jeep with 33s instead of 35s because I have yet to regear! Going to put in 4.88s before I slap the meats on! June is my B-day so 35s are in the future! Maybe even 37s! ;D  |
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Post by VALJRubicon on Mar 21, 2006 19:01:33 GMT -5
wv4x4 you should come down and drive mine I am running the same set up as you and stock gears with 35's there is not as much of a loss as you may think. I have the 6 speed, I know the autos do need to re gear, but for some reason it is not as big of a difference for the 6 speed.
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Post by wv4x4 on Mar 22, 2006 6:38:41 GMT -5
I might take you up on that! Although like I said i should be getting gears in June and then onto the bigger tires. I noticed a loss when I put on the 33s but Im not sure how much more loss 35s would make. I travel alot of mountain roads and stuff and that where I really start noticing. I think this has to do alot with my drag racing past and when I mash the gas I expect to take off!  |
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Post by VALJRubicon on Mar 22, 2006 16:01:59 GMT -5
I can tell you this if you try to take off against a Subaru STI you won't pull away from him, unless you park the front tires on his hood ;D just to hold em back. I can still take off in second, or go first to third but there is a difference than stock , just not as bad as what I had been told. It is a very livable gear and tire combo. Just let me know when you want to take it for a spin.
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Post by wv4x4 on Mar 23, 2006 6:39:06 GMT -5
are you still running your rear sway bar and if not are you popping out springs?
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Post by VALJRubicon on Mar 23, 2006 17:27:16 GMT -5
I am running the LCG rear tri angleted 4 link. So far i have not poped out any springs but I can get them hand lose , just not to the point they fall out.
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