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Post by erinmac on Mar 28, 2008 12:22:48 GMT -5
I'm just curious what mod'd gear ranges people are running over here.
I've run into a few different setups and the most common answer has been "Run 5.13's on your 35" or bigger setup with the auto OD"
Down side to that is I'm not in a rubicon model, so I have the LPD30 in front and the highest gear setup for them is the 4.88. Which I think would be fine - but I'm really curious what your guys setups are too.
What tranny you run (auto, 6spd, 5spd)?
What axles (rubicon 44's or standard?)
What tire size?
5 Speed 5th gear has a ratio of .78 in 5th
6 Speed 6th gear has a ratio of .84 in 6th
Auto has an overdrive gear ratio of .69 in overdrive
so:
Tires=35
Transmission ratio=.69
Diff ratio=5.13
Transfer case ratio=1
RPM=2208.8
MPH=65
About right eh
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Post by moneypit on Mar 28, 2008 20:21:16 GMT -5
I have an 04 with an Automatic. When I went with ARB's I upgraded to 4:56 gears. I am running 32's now but will go to 33's when these wear out.
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Post by Belfast on Mar 28, 2008 22:08:48 GMT -5
I have 32's with the 6-speed manual and stock gearing. The 32" tires actually made the granny-1st-gear perfect. Before I went bigger, I would start in 2nd gear the majority of the time. Now I use first like "normal". With stock gears I am around 2500rpm's at ~70mph.
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Post by sylvanis on Mar 28, 2008 23:20:56 GMT -5
04 with the auto... I'm running 33s on the stock 3.73s. It makes the speedo easy to read...10% off. ;-)
I'll regear when 35s fall under my LJ. That won't happen w/o a new lift.
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Post by 2drlj on Mar 29, 2008 7:20:09 GMT -5
My .02, it really depends on where you spend the most time driving the Jeep. 35's If you will be driving it over 70 mph for long freeway speeds then 4.56's.... if 69 mph and lower then 4.88's... I have an auto/OD with 4.56's running 33's.. Note, I would not go 4.88's with a 4 to 1 T-case and a D30.. The pinion gear on the D30 w/4.88's is just to small to handle that knid of torque multiple in my opinion. Because of this "possible" upgrade in the future, I went with 4.56's... Good luck either way..  |
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Post by c2kraft on Mar 29, 2008 12:42:31 GMT -5
Note, I would not go 4.88's with a 4 to 1 T-case and a D30.. The pinion gear on the D30 w/4.88's is just to small to handle that knid of torque multiple in my opinion. Sounds like you have some knowledge on a D30 w/ 4.88's, is there a story with this? I am looking into gearing to 4.88's with an automatic transmission 33" tires. Edit: I just reread and see your talking about a 4:1 transfer case. The same wouldn't apply to my regular LJ with the stock NP231, correct? |
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Post by nwquadriders on Mar 29, 2008 16:15:46 GMT -5
If you go with 4.88's in a stock D30, your weak link will be your pinion. It's really dinky. I've got a buddy who went to 30 spline axles, and an ARB up front. He doesn't worry about his U-joints or axles so much, but has toasted a couple of pinions over the past 3 or 4 years... When that little sucker decides to break, it likes to take other things out along with it. But, he also wheels pretty hard on a set of 35" tires. 33's and 4.88's would be okay, as long as you don't skimp on parts. I'm going to do that this Summer (I think) and just run a True Trac up front, and then go with a selectable locker in the back.
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Post by erinmac on Mar 29, 2008 23:12:32 GMT -5
It's so tempting to drop a JK d44 up front since Chrysler is selling them out the door for just under $1500 - that's disc to disc with the electric locker - or junkyard a d60 and build it up as well - Thing is, I hate to mess with that 7yr/70,000 drivetrain warranty haha - I've only got 27k on the entire thing - I'm sure many have gotten to and past this point - where you've outgrown the lil D30, but it's done me so well and it's got a warranty...trying to decide to drop a bigger front end in seems like such a big step....but inevitable. :\
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Post by 2drlj on Mar 31, 2008 3:55:55 GMT -5
Note, I would not go 4.88's with a 4 to 1 T-case and a D30.. The pinion gear on the D30 w/4.88's is just to small to handle that kind of torque multiple in my opinion. Sounds like you have some knowledge on a D30 w/ 4.88's, is there a story with this? I am looking into gearing to 4.88's with an automatic transmission 33" tires. Edit: I just reread and see your talking about a 4:1 transfer case. The same wouldn't apply to my regular LJ with the stock NP231, correct? Yes, you should be fine... But for a locker, I would highly recommend only a selectable for the front with the 30 spline alloy shafts as well. With a selectable you can "unlock" the front diff making it an open diff which will make it much happier when you don't "really" need the locker... This will add longevity to the set up as well. |
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Post by 2drlj on Mar 31, 2008 4:11:32 GMT -5
It's so tempting to drop a JK d44 up front since Chrysler is selling them out the door for just under $1500 - that's disc to disc with the electric locker - or junkyard a d60 and build it up as well - Thing is, I hate to mess with that 7yr/70,000 drivetrain warranty haha - I've only got 27k on the entire thing - I'm sure many have gotten to and past this point - where you've outgrown the lil D30, but it's done me so well and it's got a warranty...trying to decide to drop a bigger front end in seems like such a big step....but inevitable. :\ Fyi, It's not a direct bolt in axle for the LJ... the JK axle is wider. Sure with some work it could happen. Big thing is what tire size will you ultimately run? Running 35's and wheelin' smart you should be OK. Any tire bigger, then don't waste the money on the D30 in my opinion. good luck  |
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Post by erinmac on Mar 31, 2008 11:46:47 GMT -5
True - but it's not any different than taking a wagoneer d44 and dropping it under an TJ/LJ etc - in fact it's shorter than that - A friend has been building one up just recently for his and he's still got a few small ends to tie up and he's already $1800 into it. ($200 for axle, $700 for shafts, joints, spool, $250 Heims, $200 High Steer etc etc...)  gone threw this before and always forget about the little stuff that adds up .. seals, bearings, tie rods, drag links, hubs, jam nuts blah blah - man...i'm tired already! D44's under a rubicon use d30 ends and such - so not sure how much better I'd be if I could even find one of them some where - pretty rare to find someone giving them up! |
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Post by 2drlj on Mar 31, 2008 12:47:38 GMT -5
D44's under a rubicon use d30 ends and such - so not sure how much better I'd be if I could even find one of them some where - pretty rare to find someone giving them up! Are you sure? because I'm not, even a part number list has not been shown to me to confirm it. I've heard this before, This "might" be an Internet wheeler myth. Although, It might be true but I really don't know. Here's the deal even if it is true, it still takes care of the weakness of the D30, with a stouter carrier center section ala D44 and a beefier housing for the shafts. Now in your case, I would let the lease expire and get a LJ Ruby for 20K. When it's all said and done you'll have gears lockers, D44's and a 4 to 1 Tcase all for 4k. Or stay at 35's or below, and keep what you got. I hear ya' about custom building stuff been there done that.. It's all cool but time is money too, I can't count the hours I spent doing that stuff, But that is why I own a newer rig now. I work on it a whole lot less and wheel a whole lot more...  Plus, I'm a little older now.  Good luck, In what ever you choose.. it will be right for you, because it will be yours in the end.  |
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Post by erinmac on Apr 2, 2008 20:53:45 GMT -5
To be honest - now that I think about that statement it might be wrong - I know that on a rubicon d44 you can reuse everything from the knuckles out from your existing Dana 30 housing...so maybe that's where I was coming from with the statement...I was under the understanding they were the same, but really all I know is that they bolt together - they may not come like that from the factory. That's an interesting concept that I think about a lot too - ditching my rig for a Rubicon LJ - but there aren't many around my area very often - and I like the fact that I know my LJ inside and out from the 7 miles at the dealership when I picked it up hehe - that's a good feeling and hard to let go of for some thing else. I do keep that in my hip pocket though - that if I find something better before I take the plunge - I'll make that jump - I'll keep you informed! |
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Post by erinmac on Apr 3, 2008 15:34:16 GMT -5
Oh btw - JP mag's June issue will have a JK front axle swap into a TJ - supposed to be a full write up on size's and what needs to be modified etc etc.
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Post by 2drlj on Apr 3, 2008 16:43:22 GMT -5
Yeah, I'm not sure about the Rubicon 44 front knuckles out either. Yes, do keep us informed of what you decide. A week now, Currently running 35" BFG Km's with my 4.56's and the auto tranny. I'm fine with it because it gives me direct 1:1 3rd gear that has a slightly lower RPM when climbing or using it in the mountains for long climbs. Besides 4.88's aren't a whole lot better to justify the weaker pinion set up, with the possibility of running 35's down the road. This is only my opinion for auto guys.. Reason the auto has the torque converter for more flexibility when driving or playing, so less then 10% is usually not a big deal. Basically the 4.56's get it back to stock gearing with 30's and 3.73's when adding 35's.. Mathematically no, but remember you increased weight and coefficient drag as well. good luck. |
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gone threw this before and always forget about the little stuff that adds up .. seals, bearings, tie rods, drag links, hubs, jam nuts blah blah - man...i'm tired already! D44's under a rubicon use d30 ends and such - so not sure how much better I'd be if I could even find one of them some where - pretty rare to find someone giving them up!